Hello my loves and welcome back to Escape with Shirley! As promised in my first post, here are my must-see places in and around Bali and I'll tell you which places are in my opinion not worth the hype. In this post, I'm going to put together a short guide to help you divide up your three weeks wisely. In addition, there are two places on my list (Amed and Uluwatu), but as I haven't visited them myself yet, I won't mention them in the post yet and will only add them when I've been there - this will happen in April.
Basically, I recommend a circular route that also includes the islands nearby, such as Nusa Penida, Nusa Lemongan and the famous Gili Islands. I have marked this on the map for you:
Here is a brief overview of the stops and how many nights I recommend in each case:
Arrival at the airport, visa and SIM card
When you arrive at the airport (there is only one airport in Bali, Denpasar), you first have to get your visa on arrival. Here you simply queue at the counter, have your fingerprints scanned and your photo taken. The visa on arrival costs 500,000 IDR, which is around 30 EUR. This visa is valid for 30 days, but can then be extended once at the Immigration Office or through an agency for a further 30 days. If you would like to know more about how to extend your visa, please leave a comment and I will explain it to you in more detail!
After you have received your visa, you go through passport control and then to baggage claim. When you leave the airport, you will first be approached by countless drivers asking if you need a cab. You can either book a private cab driver here or order a Grab (the Uber of Asia). You will definitely have to negotiate with the private cab drivers, as they will initially offer you a very high price. My tip: show them the price in the Grab app and ask for the same price. As there is a lot of competition between the Grab drivers and private drivers, the drivers will agree in most cases, as the majority of tourists choose the easy way and simply order a Grab online. If you don't feel like negotiating after your exhausting and long journey and are probably a bit overwhelmed with all the drivers, definitely choose the Grab option. Keep slightly to the left after the exit to get to the Grab pick-up stand. There are also staff here who can help you order.
To order a grab, however, you will need internet, which brings us to the next point - an Indonesian SIM card. Here, too, you have several options:
You buy a SIM card directly at the airport. Before you get to the visa counter and passport control, you will find the first opportunity to buy a SIM card in the corridor on the right-hand side. This is useful if you want to have internet directly and want to order a grab, for example. The wifi in the airport is also not particularly good. However, a SIM card at the airport is of course much more expensive than you will find on the island.
You buy a SIM card at a Telkomsel stand. If you are not directly dependent on mobile data and want to pay attention to the price, you can buy a SIM card at a stand. The most common provider is Telkomsel. You will find stands offering SIM cards on every corner. They will also always help you set up the SIM card. I usually pay around 200,000 IDR for a prepaid SIM card with 35 GB, which is the equivalent of around 12 EUR. The data volume is valid for one month and can be topped up at any time. You can top up your credit at a Telkomsel stand or in a supermarket. After 3 months, the SIM card loses its validity and can no longer be used.
You buy an e-SIM in advance. You can also find numerous options on the Internet to buy an e-SIM in advance, which you only need to activate once you arrive. However, this is also more expensive than buying a SIM card locally
Once all this is done and the stress of the airport is behind you and you're in the cab to your first accommodation, you can finally start your long-awaited journey!
Canggu
Party, beach, surfing, good food and shopping - you'll find it all in Canggu!
Canggu is probably the most touristy place in Bali and therefore a good option to start your trip. However, be aware that this also means that the place is very crowded and hectic. The traffic in particular requires a lot of patience. If you are already quite confident about renting a scooter yourself, you can rent one here on almost every corner. Alternatively, the city is very much characterized by Grab, which means you can get from place to place cheaply and easily.
I personally liked Canggu as the start of my trip. It gave me the opportunity to arrive without worrying about much, because Canggu is already quite characterized by western style. Which also means, you will hardly find the typical Bali vibe here. But if you like going to beach clubs, enjoy good restaurants and don't have a problem with traffic, this is the place for you. Compared to the rest of Bali and especially other places in Indonesia, Canggu is pretty far down on my list of favorites. For me, it's far too hectic, dirty and crowded here. There are also much nicer beaches and better options for surfing in and around Bali.
Ubud
Ubud is known for rice fields, yoga and is said to embody the typical Bali vibe. However, be aware that Ubud itself is a city and therefore, like Canggu, is very crowded and characterized by traffic. If you're looking for a relaxing stay in the middle of rice fields, definitely book accommodation a little further out! In Ubud you will find countless yoga studios and very good and healthy food. In the surrounding area, you can also visit waterfalls and the Monkey Forest, as well as spend a day at the famous Cretya Dayclub.
Personally, I'm not a huge fan of Ubud. For one thing, you can find much nicer and cleaner rice fields and waterfalls in Bali. A local from Bali once told me that I should never go swimming in the waterfalls around Ubud, as all garbage, including animal excrement, is thrown into the water. On the other hand, Ubud is the Instagram hotspot for me. Most visitors here are primarily interested in taking the perfect photo for Instagram. A little too superficial for me, to be honest. Another factor is that it's incredibly hot in the city, with so many people packed into a small space and the sea unfortunately not nearby for a fresh breeze. As I walked around Ubud, I felt like there was no clean air to breathe and I wanted to escape the city as soon as possible.
Munduk
Munduk is probably my favorite place on Bali. Clean rice fields, mountains, beautiful waterfalls and tranquillity. The pure nature lets you relax and take a deep breath after the hustle and bustle of Canggu and Ubud. Here you will find beautiful accommodation in the middle of rice fields or on a hilltop with a unique view of the mountains for every price level. If you like camping, you can do so right by the lakes. My personal highlight is the Banyu Wana Amertha waterfall. It's best to rent a scooter and explore the area for a day!
Lovina
Lovina is located in the very north of the island and is known for its tours where you can swim with dolphins. My tip: don't go at sunrise, this is when it's most crowded as most people think it's emptier the earlier they book the tour. The tour is definitely a once in a lifetime experience and you have a 100% guarantee of seeing dolphins. The pictures and videos can often give the impression that the dolphins are being chased by the boats. But remember: dolphins are incredibly smart, curious and playful animals. They often come to boats on purpose to jump in the waves. The dolphins know exactly when the boats are coming and going. If it gets too much for them, they are quick enough to disappear.
The town itself is pretty run-down in my opinion. There is a street leading off the beach where you can find a few small stores and restaurants. Otherwise, there really isn't much going on here. For this reason, I only recommend staying here one night to do the dolphin tour. However, if you are not interested in this, you can skip Lovina altogether, as the beach is honestly not particularly beautiful.
Kintamani
Kintamani is a village in the north-east of the island, located directly at the foot of Mount Batur. The main attraction of the village is therefore climbing the mountain. Otherwise, the surrounding area is very beautiful and still very natural. If you don't like hiking, you can relax in the hot springs or take a look at the lake instead. If you don't want to climb the mountain, one night here is perfectly adequate.
I personally really enjoyed my stay here and count the area to my favourites on Bali. Especially the hike on top of the mountain was a breathtaking experience, which I definitely recommend!
The Gili Islands
About 2.5 hours by boat from Bali are the famous Gili Islands. The archipelago is part of the larger island of Lombok and consists of three small islands. The islands are known for the fact that there are no cars or motorcycles here. The only means of transportation are bicycles and horse-drawn carriages. The beaches of the islands are paradisiacal white and offer the perfect place for snorkeling. A special highlight are the turtles that you can observe. The three islands differ as follows:
Gili Trawangan - the largest and most popular of the three islands. It is also known as the party island, as most young people come here to party. There are many bars, night and day clubs. A variety of restaurants and cafés offer you endless possibilities to fill your belly. It can get quite crowded here, especially in the high season.
Gili Meno - also known as the honeymoon island. It is definitely the quietest of the three islands and therefore particularly popular with couples. Paradise beaches and pure relaxation are standard here.
Gili Air - the island that offers you a mixture of both. If the rather crowded party island of Gili T is too much for you, but you don't want it to be completely quiet either, this is the place for you. There are a few bars where you can go partying, but all in a much more relaxed atmosphere than on Gili T. You will also find many high-quality restaurants without the streets being overcrowded.
My personal favorite is definitely Gili Air. I even lived here for several months and never regretted it for a day. Gili T is too stressful and crowded for me. But if you want to party for a few days and relax on a paradisiacal beach during the day, this is the place for you. It all depends on what you have in mind for your time on the island. If you have enough time, it is definitely worth visiting all three islands due to their diversity.
How do you get from Bali to the Gili Islands?
There are two ports in Bali from which you can get to the Gilis or to Lombok: Sanur and Padang Bai. Sanur is located in the southern part of the island, near the airport. Padang Bai is located in the east of Bali. Most boats depart from Padang Bai, which is why this port is also the cheaper option. You can easily book tickets online or with local guides. However, many accommodations also offer this service. The speedboat trip takes around 2.5 hours and costs an average of around 250,000 IDR, which is equivalent to around 15 EUR. If you get seasick easily, I recommend taking a travel pill, because the rumors are true - it can get quite uncomfortable on the boat.
Nusa Penida
On the way back to Bali, you can make a stopover on the Nusa Islands. Again, you can book the boat online, directly at the harbor or at all kinds of tourist service stands. The trip takes about two hours and the price is similar to the trip from Bali to the Gilis. Of course, you can also travel directly from Bali to Nusa Penida. The best option here is the port of Sanur. There are also numerous tour guides who offer day trips to Nusa Penida. Here you can either explore half of the island in a day with a private driver or a shuttle bus.
However, it is more flexible and less stressful if you stay here for one or two nights. Besides the famous Kelingking Beach, there is a lot more to discover on the island. Note, however, that there are only a few beaches that are easy to visit. As the island is quite mountainous and therefore consists of many cliffs, you can only get to most beaches by literally walking down the cliff. The paths are often mediocre and sometimes even a little dangerous. The hike to the beach can take up to 45 minutes. However, the island rewards you with numerous unique views.
Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan
Right next to Nusa Penida you will find the somewhat lesser-known islands of Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan. In my opinion, both islands are definitely worth a visit as they combine beautiful white beaches with mountainous landscapes. I liked them even more than Nusa Penida.
Both islands are connected by a small yellow bridge, which you can only cross on foot or by scooter. A small boat runs regularly from Nusa Penida to Nusa Lembongan. The crossing takes just 15 minutes and costs 50,000 IDR, or around 3 EUR.
From Nusa Lembongan, you can easily book a fast boat back to Bali. From here, most boats go to the port of Sanur, which is more practical for the return journey as the port is close to the airport. I usually just book a cheap hotel or hostel near the airport for my last night.
My conclusion and personal opinion on Bali:
Bali offers a variety that ranges from city, party, beach and surfing to pure nature with rice fields, small villages and mountains. So there is definitely something for everyone here. With the help of Grab, you can easily get around the whole island and the roads are also well developed so that you can go exploring on your own by scooter. Thanks to the ports and the airport, Bali is also a central location for reaching neighboring islands.
Personally, however, I have to say that I'm not a big Bali fan. I have already spent several months in Indonesia and visited Bali several times and can safely say that there are much more beautiful islands in Indonesia. For me, Bali is too touristy and overcrowded. Traditional Balinese life is being lost bit by bit, as the western influence is getting far too strong. Ubud and Canggu in particular are so overrun with tourists and people that moved there that it is sometimes simply exhausting. The fear that this is mainly about showing off on Instagram and being part of the Bali hype has unfortunately been confirmed for me.
Don't get me wrong, Bali is still a very beautiful island and you can experience and see a lot, but it's just too much for me.
In the future there will be more posts about the specific places where I share tips and activities with you. Let me know in the comments which place interests you the most and feel free to ask me your questions if you have any!
Love, Shirley
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